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A Subversive Selection 以一个珠宝设计师的眼光来看，更为完美的：大概是历史典故与服装艺术的巴洛克式结合；还有工程系的庞大灯光设备恋上荷兰木屐；以及夜行人对未来的担忧；最后是金色，皮草，浓郁的建筑风格....................FROM:Subversive Jewelry's Justin Giunta's lookbook Scarlett Johansson for F/W 0708 LV Campaign
Who Did it Better? 右边是Lindsay Lohan 为品牌Jill Stuart 最新拍摄的广告。但是这个造型却令人眼熟到开始审美疲劳。其实为了体现出广告中的主体皮包,模特们就一律赤裸上身的造型方式实在不再是什么新鲜招。早有Karolina Kurkova for Louis Vuitton，而最近就是Gemma Ward for LV Le Sac。想想Du Juan 和Raquel Zimmermann 也玩过这花样。而最爱这么干的，恐怕就得数Kate Moss了。在Stella McCartney 及Longchamp的两季她都来这一套。有这么多前辈都做了示范，Lindsay Lohan 还非得来个前仆后继。可我不觉得效果好到哪去。还是Miu Miu 里的那个Dolly Girl 比这个一味模仿出的Topless Girl 来得印象深刻。 Too Rich,Too Thin “人们总是以为我什么都不吃，但那其实完全是个谎言。不信问问我的朋友你就知道了，我的食欲好得简直像头猪；我天天都可以大吃特吃，狼吞虎咽一顿。”虽然大家都在说这样的鬼话，不过这样的事情在某些人身上还确实是真的，比如说我。  Overcast Effect 完全阴郁化的设计风格，可以看出不少绝对受Hedi Slimane 式窄瘦男装理念的影响。这也正是我喜欢Juun. J 设计的原因。Juun.J 1992 年毕业于首尔Esmod 时装学院。之后曾担任Rags，Monaco Club 及NIX 的创意总监。之后于1999 年推出了自己的品牌，并将它命名为"Lone Costume"。Juun. J 完全重整一切传统轮廓，使男装设计中的刚毅感完全淡化，这也正好迎合了由Hedi Slimane所引领的更趋于中性化的裁减风潮。把正统的西装，衬衫，风衣样式和很多现代派设计元素结合，形成一种效果惊人的对峙。他的服装有一些古典化的精致，却也更多的透露着一股街头风潮的现代感。  New Cosset of Fashion  Lara Stone and Ekat   Clearly and Olga S.   Sasha and Sheila   Sofi and Ali Michaels The June issue of W magazine featured the newest faces on the scene. Photographed by Craig McDean Let's The Clothing Soaked Your Idea垂直的倾泻感和对于面料不规则的剪裁所形成的风格恰恰是SOAK 概念的绝佳体现。制造布料入水后因为重量增加而出现的下垂感，也成了整个品牌服装上最大的特点。The Concept of “Soak” 一直是贯穿这个品牌设计始终的重要理念。对于这个独特的概念，SOAK 解释说：我们的世界充满了矛盾，可我们却常常要面对它，并总是受到它的纷扰。什么对你来说才是重要的？你怎样欣赏这个世界？最终，答案正是基于你的思想究竟有多自由。而SOAK 正是要通过思考与设计的过程，去发现自己对于这些问题的回答。我想，无论穿着者或是观赏者也应该有这样的心态；在体验，思考或欣赏这些作品的过程中去寻找自己的答案。  Wool Player 手工工艺和手工制作的感觉是很重要的。Sandra Backlund几乎对每一项传统的手工艺技术都很感兴趣。运用精湛纯属的手工技巧 制做时装在Sandra 看来既是乐趣，也是一项很大的挑战。她将自己所善长的毛衫设计推到了另一个新高度。怪异繁复的样式完全掩 盖了设计中一切的不完美。Sandra 所向往的正是这种自由大胆的各种方式的改造；她会重组，突出或者扭曲自然的轮廓，然后用自 己的想法再将它们组合一番，她的设计就是这样被一点一点建构起来。从她设计的诸多精巧细节中，可以发现Sandra 一直在以不同 的方式去探索那些看似恼人的毛线团的特异气质，一些超越传统面料所投射出来的时尚意味。她令那些毛线的形状有了种雕塑般的 嚣张气焰；你首先是惊异，之后可能会慢慢又被她细致的裁缝工艺所吸引。我想这一切应该都有赖于她对传统手工艺极度的崇尚与 责任感。就像她本人说的:"I think it is important that we take responsibility and preserve ancient handicraft techniques which will die out if we do not carry them forward to a new level." Sandra Backlund Previous Collections  Diamond Cut Diamond  Body, Skin and Hair  Blank Page  Perfect Hurts Puppy Sneaker对于这个，我还是要保留个人意见：可爱的时尚灾难。 ISABELLA BLOW: 1958–2007Remembering the style legend with the most fearless sense of fashion  Minimalism never existed according to Isabella Blow. For the style legend who passed away earlier this week, fashion was about all-out fantasy, pushing the limits, making dreams come to life. In many respects, Blow was the last in a chain of fashion eccentrics in the vein of Marchesa Luisa Casati, the early 20th-century muse who would walk her pet cheetahs around the streets of Venice in the nude. Blow was unafraid, hitting the international shows as a Surrealist fantasy, decked out in lavish furs, mismatched shoes, and the most insane and outrageous hats ever created. They became her signature, seen from a mile away in any bustling crowd. As if her own look didn't create enough fodder and fantasy, Blow brought two young designers to the fore who would change the face of British fashion. She unleashed Philip Treacy and Alexander McQueen on the scene before anyone knew their names, buying up the latter's entire Central St. Martins graduate collection. She was absolutely fearless. And in a time when fashion becomes increasingly calculated and petrified of risk, her presence will be terribly missed. Romance Was Born就是善于制造闪耀显眼的色彩混合和杂乱无章的款式搭配，这可能会被很多人看做是毫无头脑和品味的设计堆砌。不过到底是接受还是拒 绝；欣赏或是反感，也许你可以在看到更多Romance Was Born 的系列作品后再做决定。但至少Dazed&Confused, Del Kathryn Barton, LO'real Melbourne Fashion Festival, Lily Allen 以及Yen Magazine 都对它青睐有佳。  The New Strength of Menswear Robert Geller finds the undercover cool in menswear. By Naomi Nevitt 今年30岁的Robert Geller 推出了以自己名字命名的首个A/W 07-08 设计系列。起初他开始设计于Marc Jacobs，很快他与搭档 Alexander Plohkov 为Cloak 的设计便荣获了CFDA 奖。 之后，他在Womenswear 的小试也获得好很多评价。但现在Robert Geller 真正要做的仍是进 入男装领域。  早前，就曾有时装公司希望与Geller 合作推出他自己的Menswear Label。虽然只有短短一个月的设计时间，但45 件首演的作品却表现得非 常出色。所有设计都显示了他自己独到的欣赏偏向。他特别眷顾了一众经典男装的基本样式，将它们做了很多更自我主义的改变，但却依 然不剪Oxford shirt 或是Tailored trousers 的本身魅力。60 年代著名的法国男演员Jean-Paul Belmondo 的风格为Geller 提供了很多的灵感； 包括一个领结，一顶礼帽都带有很深很旧的法式美感。  "I'm not a prissy person," says Geller. "I like things that you can wear, throw on the floor, pick up and it still looks cool. Men are not willing to go too crazy with their clothing, and I don't think they should. Good clothing should be a nice color, a nice fabric, a beaut- iful cut. But it should have details that make it something special." 下一季，Geller 称他看中了James Dean 以及一些充满反叛，诸如70 年代滑板Z-Boys 们的风格影响。 Old Shoes,New Style
Breakthrough in Design Esprit“My work is primarily about finding a reason to create or design anything... this involves me de- signing characters and stories... rather than designing clothes.”  INTERVIEW http://www.aitorthroup.com/ 1. Where are you from? Originally, from Buenos Aires, Argentina. I’ve also lived in Madrid for 5 years, and I moved to England in 1992. I’m currently in London. 2. How did you get into fashion design? Well, I’ve always drawn…it’s the only thing I’ve done forever. As a kid I was (and still am) really absorbed by good comic books. I was always drawing and ‘designing’ my own characters. One summer of my miss-spent youth I was working in a restaurant in Mallorca and I began to get really home-sick. Every night, towards the end of my shift, the restaurant would be dead quiet, and I would sit down and draw my characters on the paper place mats we used to put on the tables… My characters began to get more and more detailed, and so their clothes became more ‘considered’. At that time, me and my friends back in Burnley were getting really into labels like Stone Island and CP Company…I got this idea that I could take some of my ‘characters’ to a seamstress we knew back home and she could make me a unique jacket based on my drawings… So I ended up studying fashion and doing it myself. I started by doing an Art & Design Foundation at Nelson & Colne College, and I then went on to do a BA (Hons) Degree in Fashion at the Manchester Metropolitan University. Last year, I completed a Masters Degree in Fashion Menswear at The Royal College of Art in London. 3a. What do you love the most about fashion design? The fact that it’s all about the body really. My drawings are generally about exploring the possibilities of our anatomy…I am really fascinated by any aspect of anatomical studies, in particular the Renaissance anatomical period (specifically Leonardo da Vinci, Andreas Vesalius and Albinus). I love the interactive potential that clothes have: with the body, and with its surroundings. I see clothes as a possibility to unite the human body to its immediate environment. Function is something that is very important for me. 3b. What do you hate? The negative limitations of the industry. In particular the cyclical structure, which I feels can be contradictory to the natural development of creativity. Also, the amount of power that is exercised by some buyers, in that some designers seem to build their ranges in order to appeal the most to their buyers (to give them the most choice). The (creative) designer should really be building their range to exaggerate and define their concept. There is a lot of integrity lost in the fashion industry. I guess that works for a lot of designers, but for me it’s too limiting. 4. Tell us about your last collection... My work is primarily about finding a reason to create or design anything. I am interested in justifying all design features (everything has to be there for a reason – not necessarily functional – I don’t believe in decorational values). Concept, process, philosophy and origin are the real foundations within my work. I generally achieve this by working within my own self-initiated design process. This involves me designing characters and stories based on my drawings, rather than designing clothes. I then convert those characters and their defining characteristics into wearable versions of themselves (the garment), so that any design features are dictated by the character and its relevance to the story. My last collection tells the story of a group of eight football hooligans who become involved in a racist attack and accidentally kill a Hindu boy. When they realize what they have done, grief overcomes them and they seek forgiveness by dedicating the rest of their lives to honouring the lost life of the Hindu boy. They do this by converting to Hinduism, but the lack of a feeling of ‘forgiveness’ leads them to actually attempt to become Hindu gods. So, each outfit of the collection represents one of the hooligans and the specific god that he’s attempting to convert into. The basis of each garment is based on a generic military garment. This creates a contrast between war and religion. But also it serves as a homage to Massimo Osti, a football terrace favourite…as his designs were mostly derived from military functions. The collection sees military classics such as the M-65 american parka converted into wearable Hindu gods: The hood is sculpted and cut into the shape of a lion’s head; the white furry trim doubling up as the lion’s mane. The military sash of a british army suit is constructed from numerous fully structured skull-shaped bags, relating to Shiva’s iconic skull necklace… 5. Who is your "design idol"? I would say Massimo Osti for translating military garments into ‘fashion’ and for some of the classic garments, fabrics and techniques (such as garment dyeing) that he pioneered. 6. What kind of projects have you got planned next? Primarily, I’m working on my next collection which will be shown at the next edition of ITS (ITS#SIX) in Trieste, Italy in July. I am also working on a collaboration collection with an Italian company…which will hopefully be launched in about a year. I am also working on a couple of London-based commissions, based on my sculpture and installation work. I’m also working on animation (of my characters) and on a graphic novel.. 7. What cartoon character are you most like? Scooby-Doo. I’m always hungry, I get scared easily and I love camper vans. Courtney Love by Hedi SlimaneChloe CafeA Relaxed & Stylish bar. 这正是人们对于Chloe Cafe 的感觉。它完美的继承了Chloe 风格，制造出一种法国小酒馆式的精致情调。 不过它不光是外表好看，里面的食物也是棒的没得说。Chloe Cafe 去年已在东京的Kita Aoyama 区开设分店。  Natalie Vodianova for Calvin Klein Underwear
Keep Your Shoes Cool Tashkent by Cheyenne 既是这些鞋子的名字，同时也有它们创始人的名字在里面。Cheyenne Morris之所以用Tashkent 是因为 那里是她父母的出生地，并且在那里拥有她许多的回忆也是她的灵感来源。而Cheyenne 则是个只有在故事中听到过的地方。她 在2005年开始构想要创造一个鞋子品牌；第二年，首个被命名为Tashkent by cheyenne 的系列在2006冬季面世。Tashkent by Cheyenne 带来了传统的意大利手工制鞋工艺并融入了不同以往的新鲜审美概念。Cheyenne Morris非常善于利用奢侈的材料例 如，各种软皮革，山羊皮混合金属装饰，这也使她的鞋子都有一种优雅却充满原始意味的设计美感。并不想只作一名鞋履设计师 而已的Cheyenne Morris 更希望研究人与鞋子之间的关系，以更舒适的方式让人们穿上她的鞋子。我想，最舒适莫过于光着脚了。 就像她为3.1 Phillip Lim 所设计的那些鞋子一样，用接近裸脚的样式诠释最舒适的穿着感觉。 |
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